Jacquemus presents an otherworldly collection in the Camargue salt flats – WWD
Simon Porte Jacquemus is known for exploiting extraordinary locations for his off-schedule fashion shows – a field of lavender in the south of France, a beach in Hawaii – and this season he has drawn the fashion pack to a veritable mine. .
The designer used his cinematic eye to create an ethereal display against the moonscape of the Camargue salt flats. With the dramatic relief and bright light, it was a selfie dream.
“I started working on the collection obsessed with starting from scratch, like a blank page,” Jacquemus said after the show. The two references were paper – hence the title of the collection, Le Papier – and the sculptor Alberto Giacometti, who perfectly followed the silhouette of the models crossing the immaculate white landscape.
Guests including Vincent Cassel, model Amelia Gray and influencers Cindy Kimberly and Donte Colley made the trip to this otherworldly place. The vast white field was surrounded by mineral mountains, and the extra-long benches that guests sat on were hand-hewn out of salt.
Victoria Beckham almost stole the show when she arrived minutes before start time. “I don’t go to a lot of shows at all, but I jumped at the chance. I have so much respect for everything he’s built, I think his business strategy is really inspiring,” she told WWD.
“I’m so in awe of seeing the shows on Instagram, but actually being here is amazing. I feel like I’m in a weird dream. I mean, it’s beautiful,” she said, calling Jacquemus “the epitome of a cool young French designer”.
The two met for the first time after the show and immediately started joking around. Jacquemus said he was screaming in his studio when she accepted the invitation, and that morning one of his friends was wearing a Spice Girls t-shirt, adding another layer of serendipity to the day. “We’ll have to make you wear a Spice Girls t-shirt,” Beckham joked. “We’ll put one in the next collection. »
Jacquemus said the hot pinks and candy colors of his recent collections were starting to feel “uncomfortable” as an overwhelming design note, so he wanted to return to a more earthy palette. Her recent engagement was another key inspiration for the collection, which had references to the bride taken literally but lightly with long veils, tulle skirts and flower necklaces dangling from her ears.
The 70-look collection appeared primarily in a palette of white, cream, beige, sage and brown. “I wanted something that smells very Jacquemus. I think that’s why I came back to myself, because I was very comfortable and super zen,” he said.
There was a meditative quality to the show, with models appearing almost like mirages atop the salt hill – tiny figures from a distance slowly approaching the audience to the jarring sounds of synth music.
Jacquemus has always had a knack for making a statement with form, and here he used tulle to create figure-hugging drapes over dresses, understated in their white color but not in their sheerness. Other looks were in her signature lingerie style, with strategic cutouts exposing the body or a tiny bikini top covering the nipples.
The designer has built much of his business on blockbuster bags, and this season he paraded a plethora of puffy styles. Key looks from rtw were an 80s-style blazer with wide shoulders and a buckled belt, an off-the-shoulder jacket with a wing-like construction, and cloud-shaped puffer jackets.
Jacquemus said the business is growing at a rapid pace. The recent hiring of Bastien Daguzan as general manager allows the independent designer to focus on creation full-time. About his next collaboration with Nike, he said that while he was open to other partnerships, he didn’t want collaborations to be a crutch for the company.
The Nike tie-up has been in the works for three years, and he teased the first drop with an Instagram post the day before the show. The rest will be revealed on Tuesday and available immediately.
The partnership is focused on high-end women’s sportswear and will continue until the 2024 Olympics in Paris. “It’s a super couture thing, you’ll see there are long gloves,” Jacquemus said.
With the collection presented on Monday, Jacquemus stuck to its see-now, buy-now model, and several pieces sold out immediately after the live-streamed show.
If the creator wanted to wipe the slate clean, he did, which opens up new possibilities for the label now that it’s no longer a one-man show.
Then guests ascended to the sky – or at least to the top of a lofty salt mountain – where an art installation surrounded a dance floor, and they could party into the (very windy) night.